Many of my readers who happen to be contractors aren't going to like what I have to share. They make their living from being able to capitalize on what you don't know when charging for their services. I apologize to the many contractors for giving the rest of my readers the insiders edge. Here is how to do a major bathroom remodel for $5K to $10K less than the quote you'd receive from a full service bathroom remodeling company. Step by Step.
Step 1. Measure the dimensions of what you plan on tiling or what you plan on installing granite on (surface area). Get an approximate number and add about 10% more to your measured amount.
Step 2. Buy the resurfacing material. (If you don't do this step, you won't have the nerve to keep going. That is why I put buying the material at step 2!) Shop around for the best deals. What Jessica and I did, taking my father-in-law along, is drive to several stone yards for comparison purposes. We found Granix Stone yard in San Marcos, CA to have the best prices and selection in North County, SD. Travis asked the courteous sales rep that approached us (Maurice) if he had slabs that were low in their inventory and/or on their way to being discontinued. This is usually where the sales are for all of you not catching my drift. Like the clearance section of a retail shop. Maurice took us to several pieces stacked near the store entrance, away from the yard. We found three Lapidus slabs we really liked. We only needed two.
We paid a Special Sale rate of $10.68 per square foot on granite that was originally priced at $19 and change per square foot! Our out the door total on 111.4 square feet of granite was $1,285! If you want to know how your contractor gets the most money from you...it is in the purchase of granite from their own store or stores they work with! If you can side-step this and get the granite on your own, you will save a bundle. The granite stays in the yard until you need it so you don't have to worry about taking it home with you.
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Not my granite but it looks just like this |
Step 3. Demo yourself. If you have a fiberglass shower and bathroom encasing like me, you will need to buy a Makita grinder. You can get one for under $100 at Lowe's.

Other tools you will need include a hammer, nail puller ($15), a utility or folding knife, screwdriver, drill, chalk-snap line, and tape measure. If you want to save even more like we did, keep your tub and simply remove/cut out any tiled or fiber glass backsplash. You can always tile or put granite on top of the surface of the tub and make it into an undermount tub.
See where the Hardiebacker board is above the tub? That used to be the tub's fiberglass back-splash. We cut it out using the Makita. We're saving at least $800 on not having to buy a new tub. |
We all got gray hair from the demo. Grinders grind people! Cover your stuff. |
Step 4. Find a granite installer. The way we did it is we asked the Maurice at Granix Stone to give us two to three recommendations for reliable and budget friendly granite installers. He gave us three cards and we went on our way. We called all three. Only two of them called us back. We scheduled each of them to come to our home, listen to our project idea, and give us a quote. Check them out. The same job!
With the two sink cut outs (last line) the total on this quote is $3,085. |
$4,093. $1K more than the quote from Jose Mendoza of CSR. Guess who we hired? |
Jose Mendoza of Counter Stone Repair making precise measurements. Tel. #: 760-622-6576. |
Step 5. Buy your new shower, tub, and sink fixtures. But don't go rushing to Lowe's or HD just yet. How old is your shower valve? If it's over eight years old, chances are the manufacturer has changed the whole set up and you will need a plumber to remove the old valve, and install the new one. For example, we had chrome Delta fixtures. Jessica wanted oil rubbed bronze on everything. In order to keep the old valve (and avoid hiring a plumber) we needed to either find the same fixture online or find an oil rubbed bronze one that fit. With Jessica adamant about all new oil rubbed bronze stuff, finding one that fit was the only option. We got lucky and actually found one that fit at Lowe's. But in the end, we decided to update the valve, despite finding a fixture that fit the one we had (see pic below). Why? Just to be sure nothing would burst from old age in the future.
Here's the old shower valve |
Miguel Gonzalez (760-521-9849) framing the pan. See Miguel soldering below: |
New shower valve on |
We showed and told Miguel everything we needed. For replacing the shower valve, changing the copper cold and hot water pipes so they fit the new oil bronzed fixtures on both sinks, and the tub, and tiling the pan (Miguel tiles too), Miguel quoted us at $1480! This included $350 for hot mopping the pan, a service he'd hire someone else to do. Like all processes, Miguel had to wait on the hot mop tar seal before he could float the cement on top.
Step 8. Hot mopping the pan. This is a very dangerous, and stinky job. Miguel called on Frank Paradas, the eponymous founder of, Paradas & Sons, "Shower pans specializing in waterproofing showers. Serving all San Diego County." 760-845-0269.
Sheets of Dura Seal 25 inside the pan. Frank hot mopping below. Have several fans going during the process to make it breathable in your room and leave them on as long as you can. |
Step 9. Once the tar dries (overnight) you can have the pan guy come back and float the cement. This process involves taking semi-wet cement and compacting it inside the rectangular surface of the pan, above the tar seal. You're going to want this step done as soon as possible as it helps smother the smell of the tar. Miguel came back the next day to float the cement out of courtesy to us.
Looks like it is still wet, doesn't it? It's dry at this point. By Frank Paradas. |
Concrete float on top of tar pan, by Miguel Gonzalez |
Step 10. Screw in the hardiebacker board on the studs in your shower. Once the cement dries, you can step inside the pan and drill in the hardiebacker board. You'll need drywall screws, and a decent drill. Having the right tools makes a huge difference. We tried at first to drill into the board letting the drill (Phillips head) bit hold the screw and were unsuccessful many times. The screw would fall. So we went to Lowe's and bought a screw drive sleeve for under $10 and saved ourselves a bunch of time, and effort!
Me drilling drywall screws into hardiebacker using screw drive sleeve. We came across a problem doing one of the boards. See video below: |
Thin-set mortar in between panels. |
Step 11. Your plumber should've already checked on this for you, but in case they didn't...before calling on your granite installer to come back for final measurements, you should check to see if the new valve stems for your bathtub and sinks fit the holes at the top. Our new bathtub valve stems were slightly wider than the holes our current bathtub has cut at the top. Make sure you tell your granite installer this important detail.
Capped valve stems. The bathtub didn't have a shut-off! Ugh. Miguel checked sizing for us and capped these stems so we could continue using the water upstairs. |
Also in the next post, I'll do a financial summary, telling you what I spent on this project, how I paid for it, and how much I possibly saved by doing things myself (and by being the contractor). I have learned considerably during this process. Thanks go to my experienced/retired spec home builder, father-in-law, Travis Grimmett, who I am pushing to become a homeowner remodeling consultant and help homeowners in the same way he has helped us.
Thanks!
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